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Return to Costa Rica - June 2004
This is a view of Playa Jaco (pronounced hawk-oh) looking
northward from the south end of the bay. The waves you see out there
are in the 6 foot plus range when they break. They break hard and come
down in very long closed-out lines when there is a long period swell
from the SW like this. It's rideable, but most rides are short and end
with a big kaboom. It wasn't fun on a longboard.
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Just about a mile north of Jaco Bay is a place called
Roca Loca (or Loca Roca). I call it Lotsa Rocksa. If waves are 6 feet
in the bay, they'll be 12 feet plus out here. When the winds are calm,
the form is very good, but the waves come down fast and very, very hard.
I watched several short boards and a bogey board having fun out there.
Skill level must be high to surf this place, and it's a board breaker.
At first look, it appeared like a good longboard break as the shoulder
is very well formed. But after watching the shortboards get caught 3 out
of 5 waves, I changed my mind. It's a steep climb to get down
from the parking area. I am standing about 100 yards south of the main surf break. It's a nice view, but I have never seem anyone surfing out off those rocks. By the way, that splash of ocean spray is probably 50 feet high and that wave building up in the background is easily a 15 footer. No crowds here.
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This guy was only about 14 inches long. They get much
bigger than that. I counted 10 of these green fellows in the palm and
banana trees outside my hotel room. I was able to pet a couple of them,
but they can move real fast. One big one jumped on my shoulder and climbed
down my back when I was trying to focus the camera for a close up.
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This is Boca Baranca. The small white top wave you see
in the upper right portion of the pic just to the right of the rocks
(on the horizon) is probably an 8 foot plus wave. It's a very long paddle
out, perhaps close to a mile to the farthest break. Rides were long,
long, long, with a 6 to 8 foot plus swell and light off-shores. The
water can often be extremely dirty (it's a river mouth) and crowds may
reach several hundred boards on good days. There were only about 40
boards out this day and the water was clean. It had the best waves I
have ever ridden. There were 4 or 5 good take off points the day I was
there, but every once in a while someone made it from the farthest outside
point all the way across the bay - perhaps 3/4 of a mile (or more).
Lefts only. This place is considered a world class longboard break,
but I was the only longboard out most of this morning. If you don't
know what you are looking at, you can drive right by this place thinking
those are knee high lines out there. I've been by here 4 times before
and never guessed those "knee high lines" are really 6 feet
high or more.
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These are crocs not gators. The big ones are probably
16 feet long, and they look very well fed. This pic was taken from the
top of a bridge about 15 miles north of Jaco. If you go to Jaco from
San Jose, you go over this bridge. The crocs were here every time I've
been here. I counted 24 of them this day, but there was a large area
under the bridge that I couldn't see. You can walk right down to the
river bank and try to pet them if you want to. They are wild and there
aren't any fences. Judging from the big bellies, quite a few folks must
try that.
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Costa Rica is a pretty place. This is a view of Jaco
Bay taken from Roca Loca. Although it looks flat, there was a solid
6 foot swell rolling in. We checked Jaco Bay, Playa Hermosa, and the
three Playa Esterillo beaches each morning and found the same story.
Big, long, closed-out, board breaking crunchers with no shoulders. Our
only good surf session was the trip to Boca Baranca. The beach breaks
need something to break up the long lines that roll in from the storms
off New Zealand during the winter (our summer). A mixed cross swell or local storm system that breaks
up the lines can greatly improve things by offering more shoulders.
There were at least 50 surfboards on my flight down, but I only saw
two or three other longboards. Next time I'll probably just take a short
board like everyone else.
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Jaco Bay is a high tide break. As the tide goes down,
so does the surf, and close-outs get even worse. These girls were part
of a surf school session near my hotel. Those waves in the background
are around 6 feet and pitching over. The pic was taken with a telephoto
lens that flattens out distance perceptions. This does not look like
a good place to learn how to surf to me, but classes were out there
every morning with lots of students.
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